8/29/2015

A trattoria that never was



 
LECCE, Italy — All Luciano Faggiano wanted when he purchased the building at 56 Via Ascanio Grandi in 2000 was to open a trattoria. Mr. Faggiano planned to run the restaurant on the ground floor and live upstairs with his wife and youngest son. Mr. Faggiano’s oldest son, Marco, was studying film in Rome. His second son, Andrea, had left home to attend college.
 The building was seemingly modernized, with clean white walls and a new heating system. The only problem was the toilet. So Mr. Faggiano asked his two older sons to help him investigate.
 “I said, ‘Come, I need your help, and it will only be a week,’ ” Mr. Faggiano recalled.
But one week quickly passed, as father and sons discovered a false floor that led down to another floor of medieval stone, which led to a tomb of the Messapians, who lived in the region centuries before the birth of Jesus. Soon, the family discovered a chamber used to store grain by the ancient Romans, and the basement of a Franciscan convent where nuns once prepared the bodies of the dead.
Mr Faggiano did not initially tell his wife about the extent of the work. But she soon became suspicious. “We had all these dirty clothes, every day,” she said. “I didn’t understand what was going on.”
After watching the Faggiano men haul away debris in the back seat of the family car, neighbors also became suspicious and notified the authorities. Investigators arrived and shut down the excavations, warning Mr. Faggiano against operating an unapproved archaeological work site.  
Mr. Faggiano was later allowed to resume his pursuit of the sewage pipe on condition that heritage officials observed the work. An underground treasure house emerged, as the family uncovered ancient vases, Roman devotional bottles, an ancient ring with Christian symbols, medieval artifacts, hidden frescoes and more.
“The Faggiano house has layers that are representative of almost all of the city’s history, from the Messapians to the Romans, from the medieval to the Byzantine time,” said Giovanni Giangreco, a cultural heritage official, now retired, involved in overseeing the excavation.
Italy is a heap of history, with empires and ancient civilizations built atop one another like layers in a cake. Excavation sites are common in ancient cities such as Rome, where protected underground relics have for years frozen plans to expand the subway system.
.Severo Martini, a member of Lecce’s City Council, said archaeological relics turn up on a regular basis — and can present a headache for urban planning. A project to build a shopping mall had to be redesigned after the discovery of an ancient Roman temple beneath the site of a planned parking lot.
“Whenever you dig a hole,” Mr. Martini said, “centuries of history come out.”
Mr. Faggiano’s search for a sewage pipe, which began in 2000, became one family’s tale of obsession and discovery. Eventually the trattoria became a museum where relics still turn up today.