The Michelin Guide began in 1900 as a way for brothers André and Édouard Michelin to boost tyre sales by encouraging car travel. Initially focused on practical travel information, it later expanded to include restaurant recommendations. In 1926, Michelin introduced its star-ranking system, which has since become the gold standard in the restaurant industry.
Today, Michelin has awarded stars to only 3,647 of the 11.8 million food establishments worldwide. Of these, 82% have one star, 13.6% have two, and only 149 hold the coveted three-star status. These top-tier restaurants are considered the pinnacle of culinary excellence. Acclaimed chef Joël Robuchon, who held 31 stars at his death in 2018, noted that Michelin recognition significantly boosts business: one star increases revenue by 20%, two stars by 40%, and three stars by 100%.
Despite its prestige, the Michelin system has faced growing criticism. Its emphasis on fine dining is seen as elitist, associated with high prices and tiny portions. Michelin insists that any restaurant can earn a star based on quality alone, pointing to a taco stand in Mexico City that received a star in 2024. Still, some restaurants reject the award. Giglio in Tuscany voluntarily gave up its star, citing stress and an atmosphere of pretension. Top accolades also raise costs, as suppliers and staff demand higher fees.
The rise of online reviews poses another challenge. Websites like TripAdvisor and Yelp, along with food influencers, provide real-time, crowd-sourced opinions. On TikTok, food-related content has over a trillion views, and influencers like Toby Inskip (@eatingwithtod) amass millions of likes by highlighting affordable eateries. These digital platforms appeal to cost-conscious diners; with 80% of Americans and Britons finding eating out expensive, influencers steer them toward trendy yet budget-friendly spots.
Michelin has expanded its reach to adapt. In 2004, stars were mostly confined to Europe, but today, the guide covers 43 countries across four continents. The number of guides has increased by nearly 50% since 2020, with new entries such as Texas, where restaurant sales topped $100 billion in 2023. Governments and tourism boards also play a role. In 2017, Thailand reportedly paid Michelin $4.4 million to create a guide for Bangkok. Michelin maintains that its rigorous selection process remains unchanged despite such financial arrangements.
Sustainability is another growing focus. In 2020, Michelin introduced the Green Star, awarded to restaurants committed to eco-friendly practices. So far, 608 restaurants have earned this recognition, reflecting the industry’s shift toward sustainability in response to the 1.5bn vegetarians and 88m vegans worldwide.
Will Michelin retain its influence in the digital age? The company claims its website traffic has doubled in the past year, indicating continued trust. Unlike influencers who may visit a restaurant once and accept payment for positive reviews, Michelin’s anonymous inspectors follow strict, standardized criteria. Though critics argue that anyone can now share food opinions, Michelin remains a respected authority. As playwright George Bernard Shaw once said, “There is no love sincerer than the love of food”
From The Economist (edited)
